(T Street Beach, San Clemente, California)
He’s standing solo on the beach,
holding his board vertically,
its fin buried in the sand,
trying to take a selfie,
and on my morning walk,
even from a distance, I can see
him struggling to get it all
in the frame.
There’s no one around to admire
his effort or take the photo, so I walk
over and offer. And the smile that
thanks me beams broad and bright.
“Really? Thank you,” says, it turns out,
Jesse, the surfer from Texas.
After I snap a good number of photos
on his phone, we stand and survey
the baby waves that don’t amount
to much for someone who’s
come so far hoping to surf them.
But, I point out, he’ll have them
to himself. No local guys hogging
the lineup.
“You can tell people that you surfed
in Southern California,” I say.
“And being on your board
in the ocean on a lovely day
is never a bad thing, right?”
Jesse grins, hefts his board under
an armpit and heads for the blue.
And later, when I return on my walk,
I see him not far offshore, tummy down
on his board, waiting, in the tradition
of those hoping to catch a wave.
He sits and throws an arm up
in the air, a wave of recognition,
if not a surfable one.
And, offering a prayer to the gods
for one clean crest that Jesse
might ride into shore,
I do the only thing I can—
I send him a wave back.













